India's fabric -Sumit Roy and Murli Dhar

-The Telegraph

Demand for sustainable or organic cotton on the rise, providing an opportunity for the country to excel

A few years ago, images of the drying up of the eastern bed of the Aral Sea had shocked millions. It was linked to the widespread growing of unsustainable cotton, backed by the Uzbekistan government, to pocket greater forex earnings and satiate the demands of the global fashion industry. The demand for sustainable or organic cotton is increasing to prevent such disasters.

A silent revolution was first effected through the market-based sustainability certification standard. These global standards aimed at overcoming the use of toxic pesticides, the overuse of chemical fertilisers, excessive water use, poor working conditions for agricultural labour, frequent instances of child labour and so on. As a result, over the last decade, the share of sustainable cotton has increased from 1% in 2009 to 26% in 2019-20.

India is the world’s second-largest producer of cotton. The textile industry, dominated by cotton fibre, accounts for nearly 60% of the total manufacturing and more than 2% of India’s GDP. The sector is a significant forex earner, accounting for 40 billion USD, equivalent to 12% of the total exports of the country. India has set an ambitious target of 100 billion USD for cotton and textile exports by 2025-26. This will require enhanced integration of India’s cotton sector into global supply chains. India is an important sourcing country for major apparel and home furnishing global retailers. Furthermore, traditional supply chains have come under the scanner of global buyers due to sustainability concerns. If India accelerates adoption and implementation of MSCS cotton, its true potential in the sector can be realised sooner rather than later.

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